paris.

Bonjour. I got much practice in pronouncing this french greeting. put simply, i managed to fully plan a trip to paris, tell everyone i know about it, spend a couple hours packing perfectly, take a stress free non stop train from bangor to london (very rare), walk the few minutes it takes to get down to the eurostar station from euston station (train from london to paris), take my time having lunch, get in line to go through security (giving myself an hour and a half cushion), only to see the person in front of me in what seemed like slow motion pull out their passport in preparation to go through customs. this was the very first time i'd even considered needing my passport to of course get across the country line to france. bullocks. the next series of events involved my talking to official after official person who all very kindly led me to the next individual in charge. in the end i had to make the trip back to bangor and then back again to london in order to obtain my passport. fortunately, the kind people at eurostar allowed me to simply switch seats onto a train leaving the next day. however, i did have to pay an arm and a leg to buy tickets last minute to get to bangor and back. i barely caught a train and began the journey to a place i had so recently come from. this time dissapointed, tired and with a bit of a headache. i walked straight to my room, briefly explained the situation to my flatmates, who couldn't understand why anyone would return from paris so quickly. went straight to sleep, woke up bright and early the next day, and did it all again. this time with a passport.

after the excitement of a now second stamp in my passport, i arrived in paris wearing my cowboy boots in honor of visiting my childhood friend, Jenica. and she in return was wearing a black and white striped shirt, and holding a croissant poignantly welcoming me to this great city she now takes residence in. she is the first familiar face i've seen in almost three months. it was good.

{river seine}

my first night in paris, Jenica introduced me to the brilliance that is crepes. i opted for the traditional egg, cheese, ham, lettuce, and tomato. made to perfection as i watched from the street. we walked as i consumed both the delicious crepe and all that was around me on my first stroll through paris. we talked of the differences in french men and woman, cultural norms, the general feel, all under the thousands of lights that decorate the city. we further had a glass of wine in one of paris's oldest cafe's. for some reason the waiters each looked like classier versions of mario and luigi, sporting white overalls and matching hats.

{overall wearin' french waiters}


the following day i awoke to fresh croissants and espresso. (as i did everyday). the first part of this day would be spent exploring paris on my own as my lovely host had classes to attend. she escorted my to the metro, where we parted and i with a list full of basic french words began my journey through paris. i've explored many a city on my own before, however never have i ventured into a place that's official language is not one that i speak or understand. i managed to make it to the infamous sacre couer. or le steps as i like to call it. after making it up the long secession of stairs to the top, i spent the majority of my time staring out onto the miles and miles i could now see over paris. it was mesmerizing. i thought about how not long ago i thought i might never have a chance to be where i was standing. and yet there i was. i watched as the other newbies, fully embraced the moment in their own individual ways. some with loved ones, some alone, and some in large groups of people all carrying unusually large smiles.

{sacre couer}

positioned all along "le steps" are working african men either with the intent to stop you as you walk by or with a blanket of various typical parisian souvenirs to sell. i dodged my way around the individuals on my journey up to the top. however, coming back down was a bit of a different story. out of nowhere i found my finger being used as a base for what was quickly becoming a braided bracelet in the patriotic colors of france (britain and america as well for that matter). finding myself caught, and slightly embarrassed, as my fellow tourists were flooding passed me with their appendages free to do as they pleased. i began to share with this man that i would not be paying for this bracelet. he assured me that it would be okay by saying "we're friends" and "not to worry about it". he with ease led a conversation about where we were both from, claiming to "love america" and frequently exclaimed "hakuna matata" a phrase from his home country. one that factually can make any person smile, if only to think about timon and pumba. he quickly finished, and tied the bracelet around my wrist before i could mutter a word. clipping the ends with tiny clippers he kept in his pocket. as quickly as he tied the knot his attitude made a complete shift.

he then quite aggressively requested "paper money". in euro's paper money can mean no less than 5 euros. which is translated to about 8 dollars. in that moment i felt a bit of fear, as his mood was quite serious, and such disappointment. i muttered a few phrases of disappointment, trying to trigger some sort of guilt complex in him. attempting to make eye contact, as he looked quickly from side to side as if we were making a drug deal. i managed to walk away with all of my money minus 50 pence. however, i felt so cheated, and quite angry. on my way down i heard another man say, as he held yet another finger captive, "hakuna matata", and somewhat aggressively showed another the new garment that now hangs on my wrist as he approached me with more string, as if my saying "i've already been tricked".

i tell this story not to further the what i would soon learn is a massive amount of racism in france. but because that experience began the mindset and lens by which i would then view paris. not angrily, or dissapointed but through the answers to the series of questions i would then ask myself and my friend jenica who's spent a few years in this country. questions about how quickly i could shift my feelings from almost peacefully floating across the beautiful views of paris, to the realities that exist here even in paris. in no way did my new bracelet ruin the nostalgia of paris, but it did and does still represent the heaviness of inequality and truth that exists between the cracks. or even on the way down from one of the prettiest views in the world. thoughts that began to develop after walking away involved strong feelings of wanting to understand what would make someone have to choose those methods of manipulation to make a living. {if they even make enough to live off of } i guess many choose this path everyday, but it's in less obvious ways through various businesses and politics. how, unfortunately this path has lead many to not only see them in hatred and fear, but view anyone who looks like them the same way. i don't think it's fair that man used fear and manipulation to gain my measly 50 pence. period. but i also have to wonder what his motivation is. i get to walk away, he's probably standing at one of the many tourist attractions in paris as i type holding the finger of another tourist, perhaps wishing he could just walk away. i guess i can't know for sure.

{french kiddos holding hands outside the louvre}

i then walked around the montmartre full of thoughts and wonder. i ended up at the entrance to the louvre, where i for a moment sat with the dozens of art students sitting and sketching as hundreds of people swiftly passed by.

{cafe}

later i met up with Jenica again and we headed to a favorite cafe of hers. it was quaint and almost exactly how i could've imagined it. (mostly because i've seen the many attempts made in the states to mimic it). but it's better in person. we drank espresso. occasionally with my pinky out. ya know, to look like a local. we ate delicious pastries. and talked further of france and people and the world. from the cafe we headed to a pub where jenica and a friend meet with a favorite professor over a few pints. a british professor. we chated a bit about wales, and then were off again, this time to the eiffel tower.

{ze eiffel tower}

other than the odd disco type light show that happened at one point while gazing upon the ze eiffel tower, it was magnificent. i devoured my second crepe in paris. this time filled with nutella and bananas. yum.

{near the modern art museum}

my last full day in paris was spent following Jenica around as she showed some of her favorite parts of paris. it's always best to visit a city with a local. we started by seeing the red light district in paris, complete with running into a vary scantily clad lady of the night (during the day). this wasn't one of her favorite places just happened to be where a store she needed was. ha. other than the french hooker, we saw many other classic french scenery. My favorite being an area of town that is occupied simultaneously with both the jewish population and the gay population. quite the combo. basically a lot of great shops and bakeries. (i know, stereotypes, but also truth).

{inside the notre dame}

i also crossed the bridge over the river seine to the notre dame, passing the hôtel de ville. after taking a slow stroll through the cathedral i then crossed again the river tyne over unto the ile saint louis. next we spent a bit of time inside the infamous bookstore, shakespeare and company. unfortunately, i missed the weekly tea party that is held within it's walls. we ended the night eating the most delicious food at a senegalese restaurant. yum. then briefly watched some television dubbed over in french while snacking on chocolate covered waffles.

{ile saint louis}

{brasserie}


i hope to someday return to paris for a longer visit. if you'd like to get a good picture of life and love in paris i strongly recommend the film paris j'taime. it is a compilation of 12 short films made by different directors from around the world displaying a variety of love. your guaranteed to love at least one.

{the owner of shakespeare and company- green frame}

{shakespeare and company}

one week left in this country. crazy. the next week will be spent, traveling in dublin, having a christmas meal with my flatmates, finishing papers, meticulously packing, spending a couple days in london and trying to bring some closure to my experience here.
until next time.
au revoir.


{for more photos you can go here}